23-26 February 2010
Got to Rainbow Beach late in the evening only to be told that our briefing for Fraser Island was at 6am the next morning (I am rapidly forgetting what it feels like to have a proper night's sleep)! Managed to get a great group together for our 4x4 adventure though so it was with high hopes that we stepped outside the next morning to be greeted by a truck which, to put it politely, had seen better days. Frankly, I'm amazed it could even move - the panelling was rusty, the doors didn't close properly and there was unnerving amount of coughing and spluttering every time you so much as started her up! All part of the experience I'm sure but not very reassuring when a member of our group, who happened to be a mechanic, declared that such a vehicle would never be allowed on the road in Holland and that he would be amazed if it lasted the duration of our trip (three days)!
So you can imagine our reservations when we drove around the corner to the vehicle hire company for an hour of scaremongering with a man warning us how easy it would be to damage the vehicles (and ourselves!) and explaining that, because insurance is so expensive, they don't bother with it so we weren't really covered for anything. Finally though, we were permitted to set off in our disaster time bomb and take the ferry across to Fraser Island, the world's largest sand island (worringly, of the three vehicles going in convoy, one didn't even make it out of the forecourt)!
Arrived on the island (so far so good) and headed north up the road that is the eastern coastline, hemmed in by the rolling waves on one side and the undulating sand dunes on the other. Spent the day at Lake Wabby, a refreshing pool of cool blue cradled at the base of an enormous sand dune a short, but hot, trek inland. Set up camp that evening further down the beach behind the dunes, ate chicken stirfry and had a few drinks to congratulate ourselves on our excellent camping abilities. Very enjoyable evening even though the bugs did their best to spoil it.
Woke up the next morning to discover, much to my dismay, that they had been successful and that I had been bitten. A lot. More than 400 times to be exact. Turns out leggings, shoes, a hoodie and a huge cloud of insect repellent still isn't enough to fend them off. Packed up and headed inland to Lake McKenzie, renowned for its clear fresh water and blindingly white sand. It is indeed idyllic and I tried not to let it be marred by the unpredictable weather (Mother Nature), frantic scratching (me) or mindless shouting and horseplay (the louts who clearly thought they were in Magaluf and waded about all afternoon spilling beer into the shallows). Eventually, we did get a bit of sunshine so managed to appreciate it at its best after all, if only for a brief while.
Left early to navigate the rough tracks to our campsite. Driving inland makes you realise more than ever the need for a 4x4. The tracks are what I would call rustic - loosely carved and full of unpredictable twists, turns and dips (or should I say craters)!? It is, quite literally, a rollercoaster ride - needless to say there were a lot of bruised heads by the end of it!
After a night of too little sleep and too much unbearable itching, we began driving north the next morning to the Pinnacles, huge cliffs sculpted by sand. Unfortunately for us though, Martin's theory proved correct and we were soon diverted from out itinerary by the ominous smell of burning rubber. Our handbrake was stuck. Luckily, we didn't have to wait too long for the island's mechanic to come out and fix it and we were soon on our way again. Following the Pinnacles and unable to do the Champagne Pools or Indian Head due to high tides, we headed south again stopping at the Maheno shipwreck, beached in 1935. Our final stop before returning to the mainland was at Eli Creek, a freshwater creek winding down to the beach between lush green banks. Walked inland then waded back knee-deep in the icy water (a moment of relief for my itching legs)!
Arrived back at Rainbow Beach to unpleasant news - they intended to charge us for the mechanic callout. Since we left late on the morning of departure, we were splashed slightly on our right side by the incoming tide (not our fault and something for which the hire company assured us we would not be held responsible). It would seem they changed their minds since they were now insisting that the stuck handbrake (on the left of the vehicle) was the result of this incident. We tried in vain to plead our case but to no avail and in the end we had no choice but to pay and leave feeling cheated. Or did we? Decided we weren't going to take it lying down and after a polite but firm phonecall to the manager in Hervey Bay, a man from the hire company came driving down the road with his tail between his legs and our money in his hand. Victory was ours! Such a relief - had an amazing time on the island and definitely didn't want my memory of it clouded by the swindling ways of a dodgy hire company right at the last moment! Used the refunded money to treat ourselves to a steak dinner and a jug of cider (and forget about my itching bites for a few blessed minutes)! Stop scratching, stop scratching.....stop scratching.....
Friday, 26 February 2010
Kroombit Park
21-22 February 2010
What an amazing 24 hours! Arrived at Lochenbar Station in Kroombit Park feeling filthy and exhausted after just a few hours of sleep and an eleven hour bus journey, but there was no time to be tired. The ranch was amazing, just the sort of place I have wanted to stay at ever since I read Nancy Turner's These is My Words. Everything felt authentic, from the log cabin dormitories to the huge wooden table constructed from tree trunks where we ate a delicious meal of chicken broth followed by roast deer, potatoes, vegetables and rich gravy. Even the tables around the makeshift bar were carved from tree stumps!
Had a great night riding the bucking bronco and learning how to crack a whip (I managed it on my first attempt - confirmation that I have missed my vocation as a cowgirl)! After that, we started on the giggle juice (cheap fizzy wine) and played drinking games in the dark surrounded by nothing but fields and animals for miles and miles.
The next morning, we were up bright and early for the goat rodeo where we learnt to throw a lasso (a very useful life skill) before heading off to do our very first goat muster on horseback. My horse Shanty was either stubborn or lazy (or both!) - can't say I blame her having to carry me around in that heat. Still loved every second of it though; I won't be held back by a less-than-enthusiastic horse! Besides, she got into the swing of it in the end and even managed a little trot! We wandered out along a rough dirt track to where the goats were grazing. We then had to round them up on horseback and drive them to new pasture, all the time shouting at the top of our lungs and making sure none of them amanged to sneak away! It was so much fun.
I just love the countryside here - such uninterrupted and untamed grasslands stretching as far as the eye can see, rolling hills of green punctured with tress, shrubbery and rocky outcrops. A stark contract to the perfectly proportioned and manicured fields of rural England.
Once our work was done and the goats were where they needed to be, it was back on the bus for another long journey to Rainbow Beach...
What an amazing 24 hours! Arrived at Lochenbar Station in Kroombit Park feeling filthy and exhausted after just a few hours of sleep and an eleven hour bus journey, but there was no time to be tired. The ranch was amazing, just the sort of place I have wanted to stay at ever since I read Nancy Turner's These is My Words. Everything felt authentic, from the log cabin dormitories to the huge wooden table constructed from tree trunks where we ate a delicious meal of chicken broth followed by roast deer, potatoes, vegetables and rich gravy. Even the tables around the makeshift bar were carved from tree stumps!
Had a great night riding the bucking bronco and learning how to crack a whip (I managed it on my first attempt - confirmation that I have missed my vocation as a cowgirl)! After that, we started on the giggle juice (cheap fizzy wine) and played drinking games in the dark surrounded by nothing but fields and animals for miles and miles.
The next morning, we were up bright and early for the goat rodeo where we learnt to throw a lasso (a very useful life skill) before heading off to do our very first goat muster on horseback. My horse Shanty was either stubborn or lazy (or both!) - can't say I blame her having to carry me around in that heat. Still loved every second of it though; I won't be held back by a less-than-enthusiastic horse! Besides, she got into the swing of it in the end and even managed a little trot! We wandered out along a rough dirt track to where the goats were grazing. We then had to round them up on horseback and drive them to new pasture, all the time shouting at the top of our lungs and making sure none of them amanged to sneak away! It was so much fun.
I just love the countryside here - such uninterrupted and untamed grasslands stretching as far as the eye can see, rolling hills of green punctured with tress, shrubbery and rocky outcrops. A stark contract to the perfectly proportioned and manicured fields of rural England.
Once our work was done and the goats were where they needed to be, it was back on the bus for another long journey to Rainbow Beach...
Airlie Beach and the Whitsundays
16-20 February 2010
Arrived in Airlie Beach to pouring rain. Not the best start with three days' sailing in the Whitsundays ahead of us. Spent the day getting organised and praying for sun. Fortunately, our prayers were answered and we hopped onto the Atlantic Clipper the next day in glorious sunshine. Spent the afternoon sailing out to Hook Island where we anchored for the night and sat down to a delicous meal of fish cooked in foil, mashed potato with herbs and fresh salad. Very welcome after days of surviving on peanut butter, bread and instant noodles (money not stretching quite as far in Australia as it did in China)! Then it was up to the top deck for drinks and dancing where we soon joined by some playful dolphins splashing around in the water next to the boat.
The next day we were woken up at 7am to the sound of the crew singing "Sex Bomb" and a severe case of sea sickness. Staggered off the boat at Whitsunday Island though and headed up to Lookout Point for immediate relief and a stunning view of the dense pine forest, golden coastline and turqoise ocean. I can see why this is the fourth most photographed view in Australia. Relaxed on the beautiful Whitehaven Beach for the rest of the morning, dozing on the softest, finest sand I have ever seen.
After lunch, we headed to Luncheon Bay where we did a spot of snorkelling and made the most of the boat's spa pool and waterslide. We even saw a giant turtle coming up for air beside the boat. Spent the evening on deck watching sharks circling the boat in the illuminated waters below.
The next morning there was time for more snorkelling, this time in Blue Pearl Bay. Saw more fish than I have seen anywhere so far - the crew threw food from the boat and hundreds of splashes of colour would come charging to the surface, splashing and wriggling about just a few centimetres from my mask. I even managed to touch a huge grouper fish, affectionately called Elvis by the crew. When I say huge, I mean huge. He was about the same size as me!
Headed back to Airlie Beach for a night out with everyone from the boat and accidentally stayed out dancing until there were only four hours between us and the early morning bus to our Australian outback experience at Kroombit Park. Oops!
Arrived in Airlie Beach to pouring rain. Not the best start with three days' sailing in the Whitsundays ahead of us. Spent the day getting organised and praying for sun. Fortunately, our prayers were answered and we hopped onto the Atlantic Clipper the next day in glorious sunshine. Spent the afternoon sailing out to Hook Island where we anchored for the night and sat down to a delicous meal of fish cooked in foil, mashed potato with herbs and fresh salad. Very welcome after days of surviving on peanut butter, bread and instant noodles (money not stretching quite as far in Australia as it did in China)! Then it was up to the top deck for drinks and dancing where we soon joined by some playful dolphins splashing around in the water next to the boat.
The next day we were woken up at 7am to the sound of the crew singing "Sex Bomb" and a severe case of sea sickness. Staggered off the boat at Whitsunday Island though and headed up to Lookout Point for immediate relief and a stunning view of the dense pine forest, golden coastline and turqoise ocean. I can see why this is the fourth most photographed view in Australia. Relaxed on the beautiful Whitehaven Beach for the rest of the morning, dozing on the softest, finest sand I have ever seen.
After lunch, we headed to Luncheon Bay where we did a spot of snorkelling and made the most of the boat's spa pool and waterslide. We even saw a giant turtle coming up for air beside the boat. Spent the evening on deck watching sharks circling the boat in the illuminated waters below.
The next morning there was time for more snorkelling, this time in Blue Pearl Bay. Saw more fish than I have seen anywhere so far - the crew threw food from the boat and hundreds of splashes of colour would come charging to the surface, splashing and wriggling about just a few centimetres from my mask. I even managed to touch a huge grouper fish, affectionately called Elvis by the crew. When I say huge, I mean huge. He was about the same size as me!
Headed back to Airlie Beach for a night out with everyone from the boat and accidentally stayed out dancing until there were only four hours between us and the early morning bus to our Australian outback experience at Kroombit Park. Oops!
Mission Beach and Magnetic Island
12-15 February 2010
February 12th was the day we boarded our first ever Oz Experience bus and headed south to Mission Beach. It was also the day I confronted a lifelong fear. Of birds. We stopped en route to Mission Beach at Johnstone River Crocodile Farm where visitors can hold and feed the various animals. I entered the reception area (aready terrified at the prospect of emus running amock) to find a baby crocodile, a snake and a huge red-tailed black cockatoo waiting for us. I held the baby croc first (very wriggly) and had the snake around my neck next. It felt smooth, not rough and scaly as I imagined it would, and also baggy, as though there was too much skin for the body. I was initially determined to give the bird a wide berth but decided that there was no better time to confront my fear than now. So I went for it. Still can't believe it. I was terrified - my heart was pumping the whole time. Wasn't as bad as I thought though once he was actually on my shoulder - hoping this is the first step towards conquering my phobia. Afterwards, we wandered around the farm, feeding the kangaroos, stroking the dingoes and watching the crocodile feeding tour (and I didn't even run away from the emus)!
There isn't much to do in Mission Beach - you can't even swim at the amazing beach because of the jellyfish - so we only stayed one night. We attempted to walk to the section of the beach with a stinger net (kindly circled on the map for us by the hostel) but walked for thirty minutes before someone told us it was actually an hour away! Could have done with knowing that before we set off! Ended up just staying by the pool for the afternoon and having a BBQ with everyone we met on the bus in the evening so not very eventful. Although the next morning we did see what most people come here for - a cassowary. Mission Beach is home to the largest surviving population of wild cassowaries and we were lucky enough to see one the next morning tramping through the undergrowth with its two chicks.
From there, we headed to Magnetic Island, a little way off the coast of Townsville. Spent a relaxing three days staying in stilted wooden huts by the beach, lazing around the pool and getting tipsy with everyone from our Oz bus in the hostel bar by night. On the final day, a group of us hired mini-mokes and set off in convoy to explore the island - all 35km of it! Walked up through the gum tree woodland to the forts, built during WWII to protect Townsville from Japanese attack. The remains - mostly concrete blocks - weren't as exicting as I had hoped (think we are spoilt for places of historic interest in the UK). Just couldn't get much of a feel for human history staring at a gun emplacement. The view out across the ocean was stunning though and made the climb worthwhile. Magnetic Island definitely delivers in terms of scenery.
February 12th was the day we boarded our first ever Oz Experience bus and headed south to Mission Beach. It was also the day I confronted a lifelong fear. Of birds. We stopped en route to Mission Beach at Johnstone River Crocodile Farm where visitors can hold and feed the various animals. I entered the reception area (aready terrified at the prospect of emus running amock) to find a baby crocodile, a snake and a huge red-tailed black cockatoo waiting for us. I held the baby croc first (very wriggly) and had the snake around my neck next. It felt smooth, not rough and scaly as I imagined it would, and also baggy, as though there was too much skin for the body. I was initially determined to give the bird a wide berth but decided that there was no better time to confront my fear than now. So I went for it. Still can't believe it. I was terrified - my heart was pumping the whole time. Wasn't as bad as I thought though once he was actually on my shoulder - hoping this is the first step towards conquering my phobia. Afterwards, we wandered around the farm, feeding the kangaroos, stroking the dingoes and watching the crocodile feeding tour (and I didn't even run away from the emus)!
There isn't much to do in Mission Beach - you can't even swim at the amazing beach because of the jellyfish - so we only stayed one night. We attempted to walk to the section of the beach with a stinger net (kindly circled on the map for us by the hostel) but walked for thirty minutes before someone told us it was actually an hour away! Could have done with knowing that before we set off! Ended up just staying by the pool for the afternoon and having a BBQ with everyone we met on the bus in the evening so not very eventful. Although the next morning we did see what most people come here for - a cassowary. Mission Beach is home to the largest surviving population of wild cassowaries and we were lucky enough to see one the next morning tramping through the undergrowth with its two chicks.
From there, we headed to Magnetic Island, a little way off the coast of Townsville. Spent a relaxing three days staying in stilted wooden huts by the beach, lazing around the pool and getting tipsy with everyone from our Oz bus in the hostel bar by night. On the final day, a group of us hired mini-mokes and set off in convoy to explore the island - all 35km of it! Walked up through the gum tree woodland to the forts, built during WWII to protect Townsville from Japanese attack. The remains - mostly concrete blocks - weren't as exicting as I had hoped (think we are spoilt for places of historic interest in the UK). Just couldn't get much of a feel for human history staring at a gun emplacement. The view out across the ocean was stunning though and made the climb worthwhile. Magnetic Island definitely delivers in terms of scenery.
Cairns
7-11 February 2010
Arrived in Brisbane for our connecting flight to Cairns and were greeted by a sky so overcast we thought for a moment that we'd flown back to Yorkshire by mistake! Luckily, Cairns did not let us down though and we had four days of glorious sunshine and just one of rain (which, fittingly, we spent in the rainforest)! Booked onto a trip called "On the Wallaby" and had an incredible day driving around the Atherton Tablelands with Cousin Brad, our enthusiastic and quirky tour guide. Drove south out of Cairns across the Great Dividing Range along a winding road with more than 260 consecutive corners and stopped for two walks in the rainforest, during which we saw the Cathedral Fig Tree and spotted a green tree dragon, an enormous cicada and a musky rat-kangaroo (no, I had never heard of one either)!
No sooner had we stopped at Lake Eacham - a crater lake surrounded by thick forest - for lunch than the heavens opened. So it was in the middle of a tropical thunder storm that we had our first swim of the afternoon.
Our next stop was Millaa Millaa - Aborginal for 'lots of water' - the 40m waterfall which was the location for both the Timotei adverts and Peter Andre's Mysterious Girl video. True Brits that we are, we refused to be deterred by a sprinkling of rain and went for a swim before perfecting the ultimate Timotei imitation photo.
The final stop of the day (not counting an unsuccessful platypus hunt) was Dinner Falls (by this point the weather was positively miserable) where we had out final dip of the day...and came out covered in leeches! Yuk! Afterwards, we drove back to Cairns along the same narrow, winding road, now in the pitch black, singing old songs at the top of our lungs and dancing in our seats the whole way.
The next day was our boat trip out to the Great Barrier Reef. Chose a boat which which promised to visit spots unfrequented by any other tour (it was that which sold it and not the 'smorgasbord lunch', i promise!) and it was definitely worth it. A marine expert took us out for the first snorkel of the day, pointing out giant clams, sea slugs and bat fish. However, it was the second spot which made it for me - Vlassof Caye, a tiny sand isle surrounded by crystal clear blue waters. You could stand in the middle of it, do a 360 degree turn and see nothing but ocean on the horizon in any direction. Paradise. The snorkelling was better here too - the waters were clearer and the huge clusters of coral were literally brimming with life. We swam through huge shoals of fish, so close we could touch them, and had fun "finding Nemo". A perfect afternoon.
Since we had a hectic first few days in Australia, we spent our final day here just wandering around and relaxing. Cairns isn't what I expected - it feels more like a purpose buillt tourist town than a city. There is a sense of newness to it; it is clean, quiet and feels unlived-in somehow. But perhaps that it because it is low season at the moment? I like it though. It is relaxed and attrative, with neat grids stretching back from the Esplanade, wide tree-lined avenues and long, low buildings shaded by their wooden awnings.
Arrived in Brisbane for our connecting flight to Cairns and were greeted by a sky so overcast we thought for a moment that we'd flown back to Yorkshire by mistake! Luckily, Cairns did not let us down though and we had four days of glorious sunshine and just one of rain (which, fittingly, we spent in the rainforest)! Booked onto a trip called "On the Wallaby" and had an incredible day driving around the Atherton Tablelands with Cousin Brad, our enthusiastic and quirky tour guide. Drove south out of Cairns across the Great Dividing Range along a winding road with more than 260 consecutive corners and stopped for two walks in the rainforest, during which we saw the Cathedral Fig Tree and spotted a green tree dragon, an enormous cicada and a musky rat-kangaroo (no, I had never heard of one either)!
No sooner had we stopped at Lake Eacham - a crater lake surrounded by thick forest - for lunch than the heavens opened. So it was in the middle of a tropical thunder storm that we had our first swim of the afternoon.
Our next stop was Millaa Millaa - Aborginal for 'lots of water' - the 40m waterfall which was the location for both the Timotei adverts and Peter Andre's Mysterious Girl video. True Brits that we are, we refused to be deterred by a sprinkling of rain and went for a swim before perfecting the ultimate Timotei imitation photo.
The final stop of the day (not counting an unsuccessful platypus hunt) was Dinner Falls (by this point the weather was positively miserable) where we had out final dip of the day...and came out covered in leeches! Yuk! Afterwards, we drove back to Cairns along the same narrow, winding road, now in the pitch black, singing old songs at the top of our lungs and dancing in our seats the whole way.
The next day was our boat trip out to the Great Barrier Reef. Chose a boat which which promised to visit spots unfrequented by any other tour (it was that which sold it and not the 'smorgasbord lunch', i promise!) and it was definitely worth it. A marine expert took us out for the first snorkel of the day, pointing out giant clams, sea slugs and bat fish. However, it was the second spot which made it for me - Vlassof Caye, a tiny sand isle surrounded by crystal clear blue waters. You could stand in the middle of it, do a 360 degree turn and see nothing but ocean on the horizon in any direction. Paradise. The snorkelling was better here too - the waters were clearer and the huge clusters of coral were literally brimming with life. We swam through huge shoals of fish, so close we could touch them, and had fun "finding Nemo". A perfect afternoon.
Since we had a hectic first few days in Australia, we spent our final day here just wandering around and relaxing. Cairns isn't what I expected - it feels more like a purpose buillt tourist town than a city. There is a sense of newness to it; it is clean, quiet and feels unlived-in somehow. But perhaps that it because it is low season at the moment? I like it though. It is relaxed and attrative, with neat grids stretching back from the Esplanade, wide tree-lined avenues and long, low buildings shaded by their wooden awnings.
Friday, 19 February 2010
Hong Kong
1-6 February 2010
Day One
Arrived in Hong Kong and made our way straight to our hostel, located in the Kowloon District inside the infamous Chung King Mansions, a dilapidated building crammed with budget accommodation, curry houses, mobile phone shops and foreign exchange offices. It is absolute mayhem, with stallholders shouting out their wares and hawkers loitering at the entrance to overwhelm visitors with offers of "cheap rooms", "nice suits" or "copy watches, copy bags". Our room was one of the seediest I have ever had the pleasure of staying in - a narrow, windowless cell only just big enough for two single beds and an ensuite. I use this term loosely since it was actually a toilet, sink and shower head squeezed into one square metre of space in the corner of the room. Quite literally a water closet.
Headed out for a look around; strolled up Nathan Road, the main drag in Kowloon, and stopped in a middle-eastern restaurant for dinner. We chose deep-fried spare ribs and minted yoghurt; ratatouille served with warm pitta bread; and a platter of feta cheese, cucumber, tomatoes and olives. It was nice to have fresh salad again - started having withdrawal symptoms in China!
Day Two
Invited to lunch with Roz's family friend SL today. What an experience - a real Chinese banquet. SL ordered a huge variety of dishes so that we could try a bit of everything! We started with cantonese roast pork served with shredded jellyfish which is actually a type of seaweed (I read somewhere that everyone should try this in Hong Kong). I can definitely recommend it - salty and savoury with an unusual texture, soft but substantial at the same time. Dim sum followed shortly after: steamed prawn dumplings and vegetable spring rolls. The main course was stir-fried beef with asparagus, crispy-skinned roast chicken and Chinese greens sauteed with garlic. This was served with fried seafood rice which arrived in hollowed out pineapple. To finish, SL ordered chilled mango pudding, a cross between jelly and pannacotta filled with small pieces of fresh mango, and the best egg tart I have ever eaten. Everything was delicious and there was a real sense of ceremony to the whole meal; jasmine tea was served throughout and Roz and I were always given the first taste of every new dish as it arrived. I just hope our occasional battles with our chopsticks didn't let us down!
Spent the afternoon at Ladies Market dodging the aggressive sales pitch as much as was possible then, in the evening, took the star ferry across Victoria Harbour to meet my family friend Zoe in Lan Kwai Fong, the main bar and restaurant district. We got tipsy on wine while Zoe, who has been living in Hong Kong for several years now, told us about all the must-see attractions in the city. Finished the evening with noodles in a small Peking restaurant in Soho before taking the last ferry back to Kowloon, soaking up the city's illuminated skyline across the water.
Day Three
Visited Lantau Island today to see the Big Buddha. Took the 360 cable car up and luckily the pollution cleared and the sun came out so we got a beautiful view of the green mountains stretching before us. Once at the top, we climbed the 250 steps up to Tian Tan (the big buddha), visited the colourful Po Lin Monastery and walked up to Wisdom Path, a collection of narrow wooden pillars carved with messages from the Heart Sutra, a Buddhist scripture. It would have been a peaceful and scenic spot had there not been construction work going on (story of our lives so far on this trip!) Parts of it were untouched though, the pillars rising ominously out of the mist enveloping the peaks of the surrounding mountains.
That evening, we were taken out to dinner by Brendan, another family friend of Roz (we really are being spoilt in Hong Kong!) Went to an amazing restaurant with turntables and two sets of chopsticks for each diner (one for serving, one for eating - a system which caused us no end of confusion!)
To start, we ate crispy pork dipped in fiery mustard, followed by duck pancakes. The remaining duck was then stir-fried with garlic, ginger, spring onion and mushrooms and served with lettuce leaves and hoi sin sauce for everyone to make their own wraps. It was divine. Main course was razor clams, Chinese broccoli and cantonese beef steak, all of it delicious. To finish, we had out first taste of sweet soup: waterchesnut, which was as a savoury Chinese soup in terms of texture but sweeter in taste, and red bean soup, which was a bit too earthy for my tastes. This was followed by small glutinous doughnuts filled with almond paste, walnut biscuits and fresh watermelon. Returned to our little room feeling very full, more than a little tipsy and clutching a doggy bag!!
Day Four
Repulse Bay today - a picturesque bay on the other side of Hong Kong island. Crossed Longevity Bridge (which promises to prolong life for three days) before taking the bus along the coast to Stanley where there is a market ideal for souvenir hunters.
That evening, we watched the Symphony of Lights across the harbour which somehow wasn't as impressive as it should have been. Personally, I think the waterfront is impressive enough without the additional garish green lighting and music more suited to an amusement arcade.
Day Five
Spent the morning at the Botanical and Zoological Gardens being entertained by the monkeys. Then on to the Peak Tram, a slightly disconcerting experience - how is it possible to travel uphill at an almost vertical angle but at the speed of a milk float? There are even stops halfway up. Thought we might roll all the way back down to the bottom at one point! Arrived at the top and looked out to see mist. Just mist. And lots of it. The view was non-existant and, since the only alternatives seemed to be either shopping or eating, we just had some lunch and headed back down.
Day Six
Final day in Hong Kong. Had an incredible lunch in Lan Kwai Fong, in a Vietnamese restaurant called Nha Trang. The bright airy feel, stripped wooden floors and pale pannelled walls made it feel as though we were eating in a stylish and expensive beach house. The food was incredible. I chose bun - cold vermicelli noodle salad garnished with huge grilled prawns, cripsy fried shallots and crushed peanuts.
After lunch, we went to Man Mo - a tiny temple crammed between the skyscrapers - to light incense sticks and see the huge incense coils hanging from the ceiling. Didn't stay long since the perfumed air had a distinctly choking effect so took a stroll along nearby Cut Street Market, full of antiques and high quality souvenirs, not the gaudy tat available from most. Then it was time to head to the airport and board a plane for the next leg of our adventure - farewell Hong Kong, Australia here we come!
Day One
Arrived in Hong Kong and made our way straight to our hostel, located in the Kowloon District inside the infamous Chung King Mansions, a dilapidated building crammed with budget accommodation, curry houses, mobile phone shops and foreign exchange offices. It is absolute mayhem, with stallholders shouting out their wares and hawkers loitering at the entrance to overwhelm visitors with offers of "cheap rooms", "nice suits" or "copy watches, copy bags". Our room was one of the seediest I have ever had the pleasure of staying in - a narrow, windowless cell only just big enough for two single beds and an ensuite. I use this term loosely since it was actually a toilet, sink and shower head squeezed into one square metre of space in the corner of the room. Quite literally a water closet.
Headed out for a look around; strolled up Nathan Road, the main drag in Kowloon, and stopped in a middle-eastern restaurant for dinner. We chose deep-fried spare ribs and minted yoghurt; ratatouille served with warm pitta bread; and a platter of feta cheese, cucumber, tomatoes and olives. It was nice to have fresh salad again - started having withdrawal symptoms in China!
Day Two
Invited to lunch with Roz's family friend SL today. What an experience - a real Chinese banquet. SL ordered a huge variety of dishes so that we could try a bit of everything! We started with cantonese roast pork served with shredded jellyfish which is actually a type of seaweed (I read somewhere that everyone should try this in Hong Kong). I can definitely recommend it - salty and savoury with an unusual texture, soft but substantial at the same time. Dim sum followed shortly after: steamed prawn dumplings and vegetable spring rolls. The main course was stir-fried beef with asparagus, crispy-skinned roast chicken and Chinese greens sauteed with garlic. This was served with fried seafood rice which arrived in hollowed out pineapple. To finish, SL ordered chilled mango pudding, a cross between jelly and pannacotta filled with small pieces of fresh mango, and the best egg tart I have ever eaten. Everything was delicious and there was a real sense of ceremony to the whole meal; jasmine tea was served throughout and Roz and I were always given the first taste of every new dish as it arrived. I just hope our occasional battles with our chopsticks didn't let us down!
Spent the afternoon at Ladies Market dodging the aggressive sales pitch as much as was possible then, in the evening, took the star ferry across Victoria Harbour to meet my family friend Zoe in Lan Kwai Fong, the main bar and restaurant district. We got tipsy on wine while Zoe, who has been living in Hong Kong for several years now, told us about all the must-see attractions in the city. Finished the evening with noodles in a small Peking restaurant in Soho before taking the last ferry back to Kowloon, soaking up the city's illuminated skyline across the water.
Day Three
Visited Lantau Island today to see the Big Buddha. Took the 360 cable car up and luckily the pollution cleared and the sun came out so we got a beautiful view of the green mountains stretching before us. Once at the top, we climbed the 250 steps up to Tian Tan (the big buddha), visited the colourful Po Lin Monastery and walked up to Wisdom Path, a collection of narrow wooden pillars carved with messages from the Heart Sutra, a Buddhist scripture. It would have been a peaceful and scenic spot had there not been construction work going on (story of our lives so far on this trip!) Parts of it were untouched though, the pillars rising ominously out of the mist enveloping the peaks of the surrounding mountains.
That evening, we were taken out to dinner by Brendan, another family friend of Roz (we really are being spoilt in Hong Kong!) Went to an amazing restaurant with turntables and two sets of chopsticks for each diner (one for serving, one for eating - a system which caused us no end of confusion!)
To start, we ate crispy pork dipped in fiery mustard, followed by duck pancakes. The remaining duck was then stir-fried with garlic, ginger, spring onion and mushrooms and served with lettuce leaves and hoi sin sauce for everyone to make their own wraps. It was divine. Main course was razor clams, Chinese broccoli and cantonese beef steak, all of it delicious. To finish, we had out first taste of sweet soup: waterchesnut, which was as a savoury Chinese soup in terms of texture but sweeter in taste, and red bean soup, which was a bit too earthy for my tastes. This was followed by small glutinous doughnuts filled with almond paste, walnut biscuits and fresh watermelon. Returned to our little room feeling very full, more than a little tipsy and clutching a doggy bag!!
Day Four
Repulse Bay today - a picturesque bay on the other side of Hong Kong island. Crossed Longevity Bridge (which promises to prolong life for three days) before taking the bus along the coast to Stanley where there is a market ideal for souvenir hunters.
That evening, we watched the Symphony of Lights across the harbour which somehow wasn't as impressive as it should have been. Personally, I think the waterfront is impressive enough without the additional garish green lighting and music more suited to an amusement arcade.
Day Five
Spent the morning at the Botanical and Zoological Gardens being entertained by the monkeys. Then on to the Peak Tram, a slightly disconcerting experience - how is it possible to travel uphill at an almost vertical angle but at the speed of a milk float? There are even stops halfway up. Thought we might roll all the way back down to the bottom at one point! Arrived at the top and looked out to see mist. Just mist. And lots of it. The view was non-existant and, since the only alternatives seemed to be either shopping or eating, we just had some lunch and headed back down.
Day Six
Final day in Hong Kong. Had an incredible lunch in Lan Kwai Fong, in a Vietnamese restaurant called Nha Trang. The bright airy feel, stripped wooden floors and pale pannelled walls made it feel as though we were eating in a stylish and expensive beach house. The food was incredible. I chose bun - cold vermicelli noodle salad garnished with huge grilled prawns, cripsy fried shallots and crushed peanuts.
After lunch, we went to Man Mo - a tiny temple crammed between the skyscrapers - to light incense sticks and see the huge incense coils hanging from the ceiling. Didn't stay long since the perfumed air had a distinctly choking effect so took a stroll along nearby Cut Street Market, full of antiques and high quality souvenirs, not the gaudy tat available from most. Then it was time to head to the airport and board a plane for the next leg of our adventure - farewell Hong Kong, Australia here we come!
Wednesday, 17 February 2010
Guangzhou
31st January - 1st February 2010
Since we were only there for a grand total of 24 hours because of the way our train tickets worked out, Guangzhou barely merits its own entry, so I will keep this brief.
Having travelled from the frozen North, we arrived at the train station in the 80% humidity wearing outfits better suited to a trek in the Arctic and immediately felt as though we were standing in a sauna wrapped in cling film. Despite the complete absence of any English signposting, we managed to stumble across the Metro relatively quickly. Luckily, as soon as we set foot underground, it was like being transported to London - all signs and announcements were in English so it was all very straightforward. Arrived at our hotel and spent longer trying to check in than we did travelling from Xi'an to Guangzhou. At least, it felt like it. They looked at our reservation in puzzlement, went away for five minutes to look at their computer in puzzlement then returned and asked if we would like a single room. Well if the statement "twin room" on our reservation didn't give it away, I would have thought the fact that there were two of us attempting to check in would indicate that we required anything other than a single room. Apparently not. Eventually though, we were reluctantly given a key to a room with more than one bed and a bathroom with a sign kindly warning us to beware of 'land slips'.
Spent the afternoon in Yeuxiu Park, soaking up the lush greenery that had been so noticeably lacking in the wintry North. We then embarked upon what we hope will be our final battle to find a nice restaurant. One recommended by the guide book proved to be in a less than welcoming part of the city - we were met by many an inquisitive stare - and was not where the map indicated. I can't help but feel that there is a certain sense of futility in seeking authentic Chinese cuisine in cities seemingly obsessed with Western fast food - there is quite literally a MacDonald's, KFC or Pizza Hut on every corner. Eventually, we decided to retire to the hotel in the hope of finding somewhere nearby. We were directed next door where we ate rice, stir-fried vegetables (for which we were expecting more than the plate of celery which arrived) and fish in ginger, soy and garlic. It would have been enjoyable (despite the false advertising on the vegetable front) had the waitresses not stood in the corner of the restaurant giggling and taking photos of us throughout the meal.
And so our time in China comes to a close and we head for Hong Kong. It is so different to anywhere else I have visited and I have found the whole experience fascinating. It has been challenging, new, exciting and revelatory and I have loved every minute of it!
Since we were only there for a grand total of 24 hours because of the way our train tickets worked out, Guangzhou barely merits its own entry, so I will keep this brief.
Having travelled from the frozen North, we arrived at the train station in the 80% humidity wearing outfits better suited to a trek in the Arctic and immediately felt as though we were standing in a sauna wrapped in cling film. Despite the complete absence of any English signposting, we managed to stumble across the Metro relatively quickly. Luckily, as soon as we set foot underground, it was like being transported to London - all signs and announcements were in English so it was all very straightforward. Arrived at our hotel and spent longer trying to check in than we did travelling from Xi'an to Guangzhou. At least, it felt like it. They looked at our reservation in puzzlement, went away for five minutes to look at their computer in puzzlement then returned and asked if we would like a single room. Well if the statement "twin room" on our reservation didn't give it away, I would have thought the fact that there were two of us attempting to check in would indicate that we required anything other than a single room. Apparently not. Eventually though, we were reluctantly given a key to a room with more than one bed and a bathroom with a sign kindly warning us to beware of 'land slips'.
Spent the afternoon in Yeuxiu Park, soaking up the lush greenery that had been so noticeably lacking in the wintry North. We then embarked upon what we hope will be our final battle to find a nice restaurant. One recommended by the guide book proved to be in a less than welcoming part of the city - we were met by many an inquisitive stare - and was not where the map indicated. I can't help but feel that there is a certain sense of futility in seeking authentic Chinese cuisine in cities seemingly obsessed with Western fast food - there is quite literally a MacDonald's, KFC or Pizza Hut on every corner. Eventually, we decided to retire to the hotel in the hope of finding somewhere nearby. We were directed next door where we ate rice, stir-fried vegetables (for which we were expecting more than the plate of celery which arrived) and fish in ginger, soy and garlic. It would have been enjoyable (despite the false advertising on the vegetable front) had the waitresses not stood in the corner of the restaurant giggling and taking photos of us throughout the meal.
And so our time in China comes to a close and we head for Hong Kong. It is so different to anywhere else I have visited and I have found the whole experience fascinating. It has been challenging, new, exciting and revelatory and I have loved every minute of it!
Xi'an
27-30th January 2010
Day One
Arrived at 9.30am and, since the city has no Metro system, decided to head off in search of our hostel by public bus. So far, we have avoided them, partly due to the traffic but mostly due to that fact that they look like the human equivalent of a sardine tin. Turns out it is actually the driving which should have been our main concern - it seems the driver had been taught that as soon as you accelerate, you must immediately apply the brakes just as hard and just as quickly to balance it out. The result was that we ended up alternately lurching forward then screeching to a halt for the entire journey. We couldn't get a seat so we stood in the centre of the aisle, trying to keep our balance despite carrying more than our bodyweight in luggage.
After staggering off the bus, we soon found the vacinity of our hostel but spent thirty minutes wandering aimlessly around the block searching in vain for a sign. Numerous requests for directions were met, disconcertingly, with puzzled shrugs (even though we had it written in Chinese). Eventually, a kind lady working in a bank rang the hostel and, after ten minutes of stumbling down back alleys and into windowless buildings with dim, flickering lights and yellowing walls, she found it. I'd rather she hadn't. Relieved, we stumbled into reception only to be greeted by the same blank stares we received whilst asking for directions. We showed the girl at the desk our booking voucher. Blank stare. We attempted to gesture "we have reserved a room". Blank stare. We got out our phrase book and pointed to the Chinese. Blank stare. Realising that attempting to stay here was fruitless, we decided to leave. Luckily, we had met a nice couple on the train and knew where they were staying so we headed there and bagged ourselves the nicest room so far at the Han Tang Inn Hostel - a double bed each, ensuite facilities, English TV channels and all for three quid a night each! We even had heated floors!
Spent the rest of the day wandering around, getting our bearings. Had the first Chinese dumplings of the trip - little poached pockets filled with minced pork and served with a piquant dipping sauce of soy, vinegar, fresh coriander and sesame seeds. Then we visited the Temple of the City Gods, a completely different experience to our temple visits so far - incense was burning, locals were worshipping and the buildings were more authentic in their shabbiness. Finished the day ambling through the Muslim Quarter, a chaotic sprawl of alleys crammed with food stalls, souvenir shops, restaurants and rickshaws. So far so good...
Day Two
Today, we headed off to see the reason we came to Xi'an in the first place - the Terracotta Warriors. Took the bus as it is located 35km from the city centre and had another driver who thought he was taking part in Formula One.
Unfortunately, the exhibition concentrated more on the discovery and subsequent restoration than on the initial purpose for site (perhaps because so little is known?). It would be interesting to know more about why Emperor Qin Shi Huang felt the need to have this army of thousands of life-sized warriors, each one unique, moulded from clay and placed in underground chambers, to guard his tomb. Nevertheless, the excavated pits are breathtaking, imposing and thought-provoking, although, for me, the metal warehouses protecting them fail to capture the eerie atmosphere of the discovery. Definitely worth a sixteen hour train journey from Shanghai though.
Day Three
Our third and final day. Climbed up onto the city wall - Xi'an is the only city in China where it remains intact - which was impressive even if the view left a little to be desired, the wall not being high enough to afford the panoramic view we were seeking. Afterwards, we strolled through a small market of wooden carts selling everything from jade bracelets to silk scrolls and, for the first time since we arrived in China, were able to browse without being pressed to buy everything that so much as caught our eye. The traditional architecture and lack of traffic just added to the area's charm. Rounded the day off with a performance at the drum tower then headed back to prepare for our longest sleeper train yet, a mere twenty-six hours to Guangzhou.
I will be sorry to leave Xi'an; it is so relaxed and authentic, as though still untarnished by tourism - a stark contrast to the sterility of Beijing and the chaos of Shanghai.
Day One
Arrived at 9.30am and, since the city has no Metro system, decided to head off in search of our hostel by public bus. So far, we have avoided them, partly due to the traffic but mostly due to that fact that they look like the human equivalent of a sardine tin. Turns out it is actually the driving which should have been our main concern - it seems the driver had been taught that as soon as you accelerate, you must immediately apply the brakes just as hard and just as quickly to balance it out. The result was that we ended up alternately lurching forward then screeching to a halt for the entire journey. We couldn't get a seat so we stood in the centre of the aisle, trying to keep our balance despite carrying more than our bodyweight in luggage.
After staggering off the bus, we soon found the vacinity of our hostel but spent thirty minutes wandering aimlessly around the block searching in vain for a sign. Numerous requests for directions were met, disconcertingly, with puzzled shrugs (even though we had it written in Chinese). Eventually, a kind lady working in a bank rang the hostel and, after ten minutes of stumbling down back alleys and into windowless buildings with dim, flickering lights and yellowing walls, she found it. I'd rather she hadn't. Relieved, we stumbled into reception only to be greeted by the same blank stares we received whilst asking for directions. We showed the girl at the desk our booking voucher. Blank stare. We attempted to gesture "we have reserved a room". Blank stare. We got out our phrase book and pointed to the Chinese. Blank stare. Realising that attempting to stay here was fruitless, we decided to leave. Luckily, we had met a nice couple on the train and knew where they were staying so we headed there and bagged ourselves the nicest room so far at the Han Tang Inn Hostel - a double bed each, ensuite facilities, English TV channels and all for three quid a night each! We even had heated floors!
Spent the rest of the day wandering around, getting our bearings. Had the first Chinese dumplings of the trip - little poached pockets filled with minced pork and served with a piquant dipping sauce of soy, vinegar, fresh coriander and sesame seeds. Then we visited the Temple of the City Gods, a completely different experience to our temple visits so far - incense was burning, locals were worshipping and the buildings were more authentic in their shabbiness. Finished the day ambling through the Muslim Quarter, a chaotic sprawl of alleys crammed with food stalls, souvenir shops, restaurants and rickshaws. So far so good...
Day Two
Today, we headed off to see the reason we came to Xi'an in the first place - the Terracotta Warriors. Took the bus as it is located 35km from the city centre and had another driver who thought he was taking part in Formula One.
Unfortunately, the exhibition concentrated more on the discovery and subsequent restoration than on the initial purpose for site (perhaps because so little is known?). It would be interesting to know more about why Emperor Qin Shi Huang felt the need to have this army of thousands of life-sized warriors, each one unique, moulded from clay and placed in underground chambers, to guard his tomb. Nevertheless, the excavated pits are breathtaking, imposing and thought-provoking, although, for me, the metal warehouses protecting them fail to capture the eerie atmosphere of the discovery. Definitely worth a sixteen hour train journey from Shanghai though.
Day Three
Our third and final day. Climbed up onto the city wall - Xi'an is the only city in China where it remains intact - which was impressive even if the view left a little to be desired, the wall not being high enough to afford the panoramic view we were seeking. Afterwards, we strolled through a small market of wooden carts selling everything from jade bracelets to silk scrolls and, for the first time since we arrived in China, were able to browse without being pressed to buy everything that so much as caught our eye. The traditional architecture and lack of traffic just added to the area's charm. Rounded the day off with a performance at the drum tower then headed back to prepare for our longest sleeper train yet, a mere twenty-six hours to Guangzhou.
I will be sorry to leave Xi'an; it is so relaxed and authentic, as though still untarnished by tourism - a stark contrast to the sterility of Beijing and the chaos of Shanghai.
Shanghai
22-26th January 2010
Days One and Two
After a suprisingly comfortable ten hour train journey (if only trains in the UK were as efficient and comfortable), we arrived in Shanghai naively and optimistically expecting to be greeted by the sparkling skyline depicted on postcards, and determined to fall in love with it. Not even the fact that we seemed to be visiting at the worst time of year for smog and just a few weeks after the entire city transformed into a roaring and dust-filled construction site in preparation for the 2010 World Expo could dampen our spirits (well not completely anyway)! Decided out first port of call should be the Bund, the best point in the city for the spectacular view across to Pudong. Closed. Sparkling skyline out of the window then. Ok, the sightseeing tunnel? Closed. We could feel our Shanghai experience rolling rapidly downhill.
Luckily, there was still plenty to keep us busy. We spent an afternoon ambling through Old Shanghai, weaving through the maze of narrow streets lined with traditional Chinese-style architecture and browsing in the many souvenir shops. We visited the Yuyuan Gardens, a beautiful refuge from the bustling city centre complete with ornate pagodas, blossom trees (unfortunately not blooming in January!), rockeries and ponds teeming with carp.
Day Three
Ticked off People's Square, Renmin Park and Nanjing East Road today (which we passed through quickly in our cash-strapped state to avoid temptation). Found a great restaurant for lunch though - the How Way Restaurant. So far, finding food has proved somewhat tricky in China; we seem to encounter some form of difficulty at every mealtime. On our first night in Shanghai, we found ourselves in a restaurant with formica tables and strip lighting where we ate distinctly average vegetable noodles while the proprietess shaved meat off an unidentifiable piece of bone at the next table. Not particularly appetising. On this particular occasion, we spent fifteen minutes perusing the monumentally large menu, only to be told by the waitress who came to take our order that there was now a new menu and thus price list. We then laboriously cross-referenced our order with the new (purely Chinese) menu only to arrive at the conclusion that everything was still available and at exactly the same price. We forgave them once the food arrived though - the spare ribs were some of the best I have ever eaten, falling off the bone and covered not with the usual sticky gloop but with a fiery dressing of chillies, black beans and peanuts.
That evening we treated ourselves to a Mojito in Cloud 9, the bar on the 87th floor of the Jinmao Tower, to catch the sunset - as much as was possible through the smog anyway. We watched darkness fall on the illuminated silhouette of the city and the view was incredible. Came away feeling we had experienced the Shanghai we came for - I often think cities are more attractive and inviting at night when the litter and graffiti fades away and you are just left with the buzz of the city.
Took the Metro home which we are finding the easiest, quickest and cheapest way of getting around in China. It costs around 4 Yuan (40 pence) per journey, regardless of how far you have to travel, and all signs and announcements are in English. Once on the train, there is even a little green light on the map to show you which stop you are at and the direction in which you are headed. Anyway, we were sitting on the train minding our own business when we heard a telltale clicking sound. We looked over to the man sitting opposite; he may have been discreetly looking everywhere but at us but unfortunately the camera phone he was pointing at us betrayed him! This is becoming a regular feature of our trip. Whilst sitting in Tiananmen Square in Beijing, we were approached by a young girl requesting a photo with us. We nodded, exchanging bewildered glances, and she plonked herself down in the middle whilst her friend starting merrily clicking away. No sooner had he finished than she held up a finger, asked us to "wait a minute" and gestured to six people queuing up to take her place! So we sat patiently while they took their turns and their 'photographer' paced round us, clicking frantically like a member of the papparazzi! Seems we are causing something of a stir in China!
Day Four
For our final day in Shanghai, we went to the French Concession, an area spanning several districts but defined by its tree-lined avenues and European-inspired architecture. It is a beautiful part of the city and one of the few places where you can wander around soaking up the atmosphere without living in fear of being mowed down every time you step off the pavement. For lunch, we had the best meal of the trip so far in a modest, but spotlessly clean, restaurant crammed with locals where we ate crisp panfried red mullet served whole with soy sauce and shredded spring onion and stir-fried satay beef with Chinese broccoli. It was delicious, so wholesome and simple yet packed with flavour.
That evening, we went to see the Yun Feng Acrobats . It was so impressive it gave me goosebumps! Daring, dangerous, exhilirating - we were on the edge of our seats the entire time! There was plate-spinning, trick cycling, contortionism, hoop jumping and a hula hoop act where several girls turned themselves into human slinkies! The highlight for me had to be an interpretation of the Titanic scene using the silk trapeze and the grand finale which involved motorbikes and a huge metal sphere.It wasn't completely polished - in fact there were a few minor slips - but for me, this only added to its charm and made the incredible feats all the more so by contrast. We came away on such a high, we bought six doughnuts and ate them all at once. The perfect end to our Shanghai experience.
Days One and Two
After a suprisingly comfortable ten hour train journey (if only trains in the UK were as efficient and comfortable), we arrived in Shanghai naively and optimistically expecting to be greeted by the sparkling skyline depicted on postcards, and determined to fall in love with it. Not even the fact that we seemed to be visiting at the worst time of year for smog and just a few weeks after the entire city transformed into a roaring and dust-filled construction site in preparation for the 2010 World Expo could dampen our spirits (well not completely anyway)! Decided out first port of call should be the Bund, the best point in the city for the spectacular view across to Pudong. Closed. Sparkling skyline out of the window then. Ok, the sightseeing tunnel? Closed. We could feel our Shanghai experience rolling rapidly downhill.
Luckily, there was still plenty to keep us busy. We spent an afternoon ambling through Old Shanghai, weaving through the maze of narrow streets lined with traditional Chinese-style architecture and browsing in the many souvenir shops. We visited the Yuyuan Gardens, a beautiful refuge from the bustling city centre complete with ornate pagodas, blossom trees (unfortunately not blooming in January!), rockeries and ponds teeming with carp.
Day Three
Ticked off People's Square, Renmin Park and Nanjing East Road today (which we passed through quickly in our cash-strapped state to avoid temptation). Found a great restaurant for lunch though - the How Way Restaurant. So far, finding food has proved somewhat tricky in China; we seem to encounter some form of difficulty at every mealtime. On our first night in Shanghai, we found ourselves in a restaurant with formica tables and strip lighting where we ate distinctly average vegetable noodles while the proprietess shaved meat off an unidentifiable piece of bone at the next table. Not particularly appetising. On this particular occasion, we spent fifteen minutes perusing the monumentally large menu, only to be told by the waitress who came to take our order that there was now a new menu and thus price list. We then laboriously cross-referenced our order with the new (purely Chinese) menu only to arrive at the conclusion that everything was still available and at exactly the same price. We forgave them once the food arrived though - the spare ribs were some of the best I have ever eaten, falling off the bone and covered not with the usual sticky gloop but with a fiery dressing of chillies, black beans and peanuts.
That evening we treated ourselves to a Mojito in Cloud 9, the bar on the 87th floor of the Jinmao Tower, to catch the sunset - as much as was possible through the smog anyway. We watched darkness fall on the illuminated silhouette of the city and the view was incredible. Came away feeling we had experienced the Shanghai we came for - I often think cities are more attractive and inviting at night when the litter and graffiti fades away and you are just left with the buzz of the city.
Took the Metro home which we are finding the easiest, quickest and cheapest way of getting around in China. It costs around 4 Yuan (40 pence) per journey, regardless of how far you have to travel, and all signs and announcements are in English. Once on the train, there is even a little green light on the map to show you which stop you are at and the direction in which you are headed. Anyway, we were sitting on the train minding our own business when we heard a telltale clicking sound. We looked over to the man sitting opposite; he may have been discreetly looking everywhere but at us but unfortunately the camera phone he was pointing at us betrayed him! This is becoming a regular feature of our trip. Whilst sitting in Tiananmen Square in Beijing, we were approached by a young girl requesting a photo with us. We nodded, exchanging bewildered glances, and she plonked herself down in the middle whilst her friend starting merrily clicking away. No sooner had he finished than she held up a finger, asked us to "wait a minute" and gestured to six people queuing up to take her place! So we sat patiently while they took their turns and their 'photographer' paced round us, clicking frantically like a member of the papparazzi! Seems we are causing something of a stir in China!
Day Four
For our final day in Shanghai, we went to the French Concession, an area spanning several districts but defined by its tree-lined avenues and European-inspired architecture. It is a beautiful part of the city and one of the few places where you can wander around soaking up the atmosphere without living in fear of being mowed down every time you step off the pavement. For lunch, we had the best meal of the trip so far in a modest, but spotlessly clean, restaurant crammed with locals where we ate crisp panfried red mullet served whole with soy sauce and shredded spring onion and stir-fried satay beef with Chinese broccoli. It was delicious, so wholesome and simple yet packed with flavour.
That evening, we went to see the Yun Feng Acrobats . It was so impressive it gave me goosebumps! Daring, dangerous, exhilirating - we were on the edge of our seats the entire time! There was plate-spinning, trick cycling, contortionism, hoop jumping and a hula hoop act where several girls turned themselves into human slinkies! The highlight for me had to be an interpretation of the Titanic scene using the silk trapeze and the grand finale which involved motorbikes and a huge metal sphere.It wasn't completely polished - in fact there were a few minor slips - but for me, this only added to its charm and made the incredible feats all the more so by contrast. We came away on such a high, we bought six doughnuts and ate them all at once. The perfect end to our Shanghai experience.
Beijing
17-21 January 2010
Days One and Two
So here it is then, the first blog entry on my trip (part of the way) around the world. Technically, we arrived in Beijing on Sunday (17th) but spent the rest of the day sleeping off the jetlag, only venturing out in the evening to get our bearings and find sustenance.
The next day, however, we were all togged up and raring to go, looking like the Michelin Man in thermals, fleeces, hats, gloves and ski jackets (having heard rumours of temperatures reaching -17, we weren't taking any chances)! Started with Tiananmen Square - a vast, concrete expanse flanked on all sides by equally vast and impressive, if a little soulless, buildings. From there, we set off for the Underground City, a series of tunnels and chambers built during the 1970's when China feared nuclear war with Russia. After half an hour of searching for a street that didn't seem to exist before collaring a passer-by and communicating solely through gestures and pointing for ten minutes, we learnt that it was down a less than inviting alleyway. But, determined sightseers that we are, we soldiered on through the dilapidated buildings only to emerge on the other side thoroughly bemused and seemingly no closer to our destination. We gave up on our search and instead spent the afternoon at the Temple of Heaven Park, relieved to be wandering through temples and pagodas and along tree-lined avenues rather than dodging cars on the twelve-lane boulevards - as far as I can tell, red lights and green men really are just guidelines here! Went to the Quanjude Duck Restaurant for dinner. The service was indifferent at best but the food made up for it - moist sliced duck served with pancakes; spring onion and cucumber; sweet and sticky sauce; and (new additions) mashed garlic and sugar. We were also introduced to the indulgent delicacy of crispy duck skin dipped in unrefined sugar.
Day Three
I think ours was a unique Great Wall experience. A thin sheet of ice meant that we crawled rather than walked and thick fog ensured that we could only see a few metres in either direction. It did lend the wall a rather eerie and mysterious atmosphere though (more so than the Subway at the entrance anyway!) and it was a great way of making sure we had the wall to ourselves.
Day Four
Tackled the Forbidden City today, an almost overwhelming labyrinth of increasingly intricate temples and palaces separated from the city by a huge stone wall and vast frozen moat. In the evening, we found a great little restaurant in the Hutongs (the old alleyways of Beijing) where we enjoyed sizzling beef in a fiery black pepper sauce and vegetable chow mein. We even got some free Chinese lessons from the man at the next table (who also complimented us on our as-yet unpolished chopstick skills!) - I now know that 'shie-shie' means 'thank you' and that 'wo bu dong' means 'I don't understand'. That should be enough to keep me going for a couple of days at least!
Day Five
Our final day in Beijing - climbed Prospect Hill in Jingshan Park for a panoramic view of the city. This was marred somewhat by the thick haze of pollution hanging over it though. Had lunch at Ajisen, a vibrant and bustling noodle bar chain with minimalist decor and cartoon-style paintings of sumo wrestlers adorning the walls. The noodles arrived in steaming bowls with huge wooden spoons: fragrant broth with a kick of chilli, rice noodles, sweet prawns and crunchy fresh vegetables. Delicious. Our final stop in Beijing was Donghuamen Night Market, a collection brightly coloured street stalls selling everything from scorpion and starfish skewers to sugared fruit kebabs (unsurprisingly, we chose the latter!)
It has been an incredible few days but I am ready to leave Beijing - I have loved the individual pockets we have seen but it feels so sterile that it's difficult to form any kind of attachment to the city as a whole. Perhaps this is in part due to the sheer size of everything? Most of the pavements are wide enough for two lanes of traffic! We have just boarded our first sleeper train at the most high-tech train station I have ever seen and now we are speeding through the night. Next stop, Shanghai......
Days One and Two
So here it is then, the first blog entry on my trip (part of the way) around the world. Technically, we arrived in Beijing on Sunday (17th) but spent the rest of the day sleeping off the jetlag, only venturing out in the evening to get our bearings and find sustenance.
The next day, however, we were all togged up and raring to go, looking like the Michelin Man in thermals, fleeces, hats, gloves and ski jackets (having heard rumours of temperatures reaching -17, we weren't taking any chances)! Started with Tiananmen Square - a vast, concrete expanse flanked on all sides by equally vast and impressive, if a little soulless, buildings. From there, we set off for the Underground City, a series of tunnels and chambers built during the 1970's when China feared nuclear war with Russia. After half an hour of searching for a street that didn't seem to exist before collaring a passer-by and communicating solely through gestures and pointing for ten minutes, we learnt that it was down a less than inviting alleyway. But, determined sightseers that we are, we soldiered on through the dilapidated buildings only to emerge on the other side thoroughly bemused and seemingly no closer to our destination. We gave up on our search and instead spent the afternoon at the Temple of Heaven Park, relieved to be wandering through temples and pagodas and along tree-lined avenues rather than dodging cars on the twelve-lane boulevards - as far as I can tell, red lights and green men really are just guidelines here! Went to the Quanjude Duck Restaurant for dinner. The service was indifferent at best but the food made up for it - moist sliced duck served with pancakes; spring onion and cucumber; sweet and sticky sauce; and (new additions) mashed garlic and sugar. We were also introduced to the indulgent delicacy of crispy duck skin dipped in unrefined sugar.
Day Three
I think ours was a unique Great Wall experience. A thin sheet of ice meant that we crawled rather than walked and thick fog ensured that we could only see a few metres in either direction. It did lend the wall a rather eerie and mysterious atmosphere though (more so than the Subway at the entrance anyway!) and it was a great way of making sure we had the wall to ourselves.
Day Four
Tackled the Forbidden City today, an almost overwhelming labyrinth of increasingly intricate temples and palaces separated from the city by a huge stone wall and vast frozen moat. In the evening, we found a great little restaurant in the Hutongs (the old alleyways of Beijing) where we enjoyed sizzling beef in a fiery black pepper sauce and vegetable chow mein. We even got some free Chinese lessons from the man at the next table (who also complimented us on our as-yet unpolished chopstick skills!) - I now know that 'shie-shie' means 'thank you' and that 'wo bu dong' means 'I don't understand'. That should be enough to keep me going for a couple of days at least!
Day Five
Our final day in Beijing - climbed Prospect Hill in Jingshan Park for a panoramic view of the city. This was marred somewhat by the thick haze of pollution hanging over it though. Had lunch at Ajisen, a vibrant and bustling noodle bar chain with minimalist decor and cartoon-style paintings of sumo wrestlers adorning the walls. The noodles arrived in steaming bowls with huge wooden spoons: fragrant broth with a kick of chilli, rice noodles, sweet prawns and crunchy fresh vegetables. Delicious. Our final stop in Beijing was Donghuamen Night Market, a collection brightly coloured street stalls selling everything from scorpion and starfish skewers to sugared fruit kebabs (unsurprisingly, we chose the latter!)
It has been an incredible few days but I am ready to leave Beijing - I have loved the individual pockets we have seen but it feels so sterile that it's difficult to form any kind of attachment to the city as a whole. Perhaps this is in part due to the sheer size of everything? Most of the pavements are wide enough for two lanes of traffic! We have just boarded our first sleeper train at the most high-tech train station I have ever seen and now we are speeding through the night. Next stop, Shanghai......
A little explanation...
Unfortunately, I couldn't access my blog in China, hence the lack of entries so far. But fear not, i decided to go old school and write them by hand as i went along. What follows, in a kind of 'better-late-than-never' approach, is an entry for each leg of my journey so far...
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